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The Great Theatre is carved into the western slope of Mount Pion and looks down the Arcadian Street towards what was once the harbour. Its origins are Hellenistic, but most of what stands today dates from Roman rebuilding and enlargement, which gave it a capacity usually estimated at around 24,000.
Plays, public assemblies and gladiatorial shows were held here. The Acts of the Apostles describes a riot in Ephesus, stirred up by silversmiths who feared for the trade in shrines of Artemis, in which the crowd rushed into the theatre and shouted for hours in support of the goddess.
The acoustics are still remarkable: a speaker standing on the stage can be heard clearly in the upper rows. Climbing a few rows gives the best view down the avenue and across the whole ancient city.
Take water and a hat; the stone seats reflect heat strongly in summer.